I started surfing about a year ago, which is a shame really because I’ve lived at the beach for 28 years. Surfing is something I have always dreamed of doing, but never had the resources to do. So now I make up for lost time. I surf as much as my schedule will allow. You know the saying, “practice makes perfect”. Well I’m doing just that. “50 times”,  fellow Babeler Greg Molyneux said.

Sports like surfing and golf take a lot of practice before you can even preform the core functions. 50 attempts is an average of what one would need to reach that level of basic technique. You gotta learn fundamentals.  Even from there the learning never stops…

I agreed. So I said to myself…

Self, more dedication and education is required. I’ve paddled out about 30 times now (only 30 because of the cold water in Jersey and my lack of a wetsuit until recently). Not only do I need to get out there and do it more, I need to read about it. I need to learn from others. Professionals would be good to hear from…

And wouldn’t you know just such a professional was to visit my town. His name was and is Shaun Tomson. In tow was his book, Surfer’s Code: 12 Simple Lessons For Riding Through Life. Quite fortuitous I would say… Hmm? Hmm?

I was not able to make it to the book signing at Pine, the local surf shop/ art gallery.  Half because i was engaged in other activities and half because who the hell is Shaun Tomson? I was however able to procure a signed copy of the book. I read the 191 pages over a period of 5 days so that the lessons would sink in. It was a very captivating read. Especially learning about the big wave rider himself. From his childhood in South Africa during apartheid to his 14 years on the world surfing tour and his record six year winning streak in the Gunston 500 in South Africa (1972-77), Shaun Tomson told of his enriching experiences. That’s when I understood the folly of my ways and my intellect. I missed out on meeting one of surfing’s’ greats.

The lessons/chapters in the book were awesome, both for my life in the water and on the land. From changing how I wait for waves to my thoughts of being some thing’s “lunch”. He really has a way of putting things into perspective. He brought a whole new mindset to what I was doing and how I was thinking. I wanted to catch a wave, but I wasn’t dedicated to it. I was too worried with all the details and wasn’t seeing the bigger picture. I was leaving my dominating “safe” life on land and actively joining the “food-chain”, as he so delicately put. I was joining a community in the wild.

Basically the book was great, it totally helped and even the dude at the surf shop who’s been surfing all his life said the lessons were “right on”. There are 12 lessons in the book and each one is fantastic for the soul. The lesson that agreed with me the most was lesson 8, “I Will Always Ride into Shore”, because you should always finish what you start. Now I’m not saying that because of this book I can now surf because I can’t. I’m still working on the turn after the drop. Who the hell am I kidding, I’m still working on the drop. Actually I’m still working on everything. Practice makes perfect… and “I Will Paddle Back Out” (lesson5). I’m only 20 away from 50 times and so close to putting the “fun” in fundamentals.

A huge thank you goes out to Shaun Tomson with Patrick Moser authors of this book. Their book has brought this Jersey boy much enjoyment both in and out of the ocean. And I will forever ” Honor the Sport of Kings” (lesson 12).

Check out Shaun Tomson discussing The Wave at Jefferey’s Bay.